It’s not often you get asked to be a bit of ‘crash test
dummy’ trying out a new product, but when Chris & Jess Bray offer a night
out at Swell Lodge to test out their new eco-lodge, you find yourself willingly
answering “yes please!!’.
It might look like this tent popped up overnight in the
remote wilderness on Christmas Island, but it was in fact a project seeded by
this amazing couple during their first photographic safari hosted on the island
in 2013. The stars aligned with the Bray’s seeing the potential for a unique
tourism venture coinciding with the imminent release of the National Park Expression
of Interest for a development in the park.
Late 2016 they received confirmation they were the
successful applicants with their development proposal, and 2017 saw a lot of jungle
exploration, planning, designing and engineering to bring this fully ‘off-grid’
eco-lodge to life. And whilst at times this has led to angst, stress and all
the challenges that building in a remote location on a very remote island
brings, that planning and attention to detail has paid off in spades.
The experience starts when you leave town, following the
shiny new ‘Swell Lodge’ signs out to the remote North western point of the
island, where our spectacular Dales are nestled, a RAMSAR protected wetland
boasting a number of springs and a waterfall. A padlocked gate makes you feel
like you are entering an exclusive location, half expecting to see paparazzi
pop out of the forest to capture your photo before heading into the private
tree-filled zone – the gate sporting a sign to remind you to go very slow, as
your vehicle will be sharing the road with the prolific crab life present in
the rainforest.
A winding unsealed track leads you to the tent - a gabion
wall, your first indication of any human development for kilometres in any
direction. A very handy trolley allows you to load up your luggage for the short
saunter to the tent, hidden most of the time due to the dense vegetation lining
the trail – a small decline in the landscape and you have dropped to the lower
terrace, on which the tent is perched.
A futurist electronic door lock winds back once you have
pressed the code and you enter another world – the first thing that grabs your
attention is the ‘wall to wall’ sliding doors that maximise the view of the
rugged coastline – the light – the atmosphere. Outside is immediately inside –
and you can’t forget the fact that you are way out of town, in a pristine
wilderness - but the surrounding luxury of the lodge messes with your senses –
in a good way!
As a long term resident of Christmas Island, over the years I have camped out at Dolly & Lily Beaches, even South Point. We have carried our gear, sometimes for a couple of kilometres to enjoy the locale and make the most of being ‘away from it all’. Contending with robber crabs pinching you through the tent whilst trying to steal your food, sand getting in everything and of course – not being able to treat yourself to a fresh brewed coffee without the possibility of getting third degree burns from your fire pit, or not realising the sand settled at the bottom of your mug until you upend the remnants of your drink down the hatch.
This…. This is something entirely new! I am not sure I can explain it, but will give it a go.
Most of Christmas Island is undeveloped – the main township,
spread over a few of the geologically-formed terraces, houses the community, a
defunct resort/ casino on an Eastern point, a declining detention centre, a few
plots of land hosting the phosphate export industry - effectively 10 minutes’
drive from Settlement and you are in wilderness, open and in some cases
impenetrable tropical forest.
A number of tracks and trails allows visitors to venture to some of the most spectacular places on the island – with my tours allowing morning or afternoon tea at a lovely location, or a self-arranged picnic with visitors using the opportunity to take a dip in the ocean at a remote beach – an opportunity to relax at a location and take in the surrounds, but always with the plan to head back to the township to enjoy the services of their accommodation and local restaurants.
Swell Lodge means that you no longer have to head back to
town – you stay out there, immersed in the wilderness of the Christmas Island
forest. Civilised living - away from civilisation! Listening to the sounds of the rhythmic ocean waves, feeling the breeze, watching the moon rise as
the prolific bird life wheels around you whilst sipping something chilled as
the sun sets and just knowing that you have absolutely nowhere else to be - but
to just ‘be’.
The tent is well- appointed – comfy bed and linens, lovely
ensuite, bbq, good quality crockery and cookware, kettle and most importantly – a
coffee machine! We made the most of it – trying to experience what we could
during our stay. Eating our dinner and breakfast on the deck, enjoying a
mid-morning coffee and a game of cards after an early morning dip at nearby
Merrial Beach. Everything we needed to grab for – it was there! A torch supplied
after we realised we had left something in the car, a reasonable
sized freezer for our ice cream, a selection of good quality teas and my
favourite – Vittoria coffee – to either use in the machine for a cappuccino, or
with the plunger, also supplied.
Our time out at Swell Lodge passed way too quickly for my
liking. You kind of wish it stood still so you could just keep drinking in the
nature and the view. We were blessed to witness a few passing dolphins, and the
occasional local fishing boat drifting past, looking for bigger catches at
Egeria Point.
And with the end our of stay came the realisation that we
had this amazing opportunity to stay on a part of the island that we wouldn’t have
otherwise had the chance to – and also that I just don’t think our old tent
pitched at a remote beach is going to ‘cut it’ again for our ‘off-grid’
experience!
Swell Lodge is now available for bookings and they have a
July 2018 Special - book a 7 day stay and receive a free Sunset Canapes Cruise
from Flying Fish Cove. For more details visit www.indianoceanexperiences.com.au
for full packages including flights, or www.swelllodge.com
for more details about the stay.